The Normandy WWII Cemeteries
I don’t think I really absorbed the significance of D-Day and its aftermath until I visited some cemeteries, particularly the American cemetery, situated about halfway between Colleville sur Mer and St. Laurent sur Mer. While we were in Normandy we also visited a Canadian, and a German cemetery.
There are 28 military cemeteries in Normandy, the final resting place for some of the 130,000 servicemen were killed in the Battle for Normandy, most of them German. Until the First Gulf War, British war dead were always buried near where they fell, which explains the large number of British cemeteries. American families have the choice of bringing their loved ones home. As a result, less than 20% of those Americans who perished liberating France are buried here.
The Germans were originally buried in as many as 1,400 locations around Normandy. These have been centralized into the six current cemeteries, which hold over 58,000 bodies. This does not count those in undiscovered graves, missing in action, or re-buried elsewhere in France or Germany.
American cemetery – Colleville-sur-Mer
If you saw Saving Private Ryan, you would recognize Colleville/St. Laurent. The pine trees shown in the movie are on a bluff overlooking Omaha Beach, where so many Americans died.
The place is set up to elicit emotion, with the long central walk to the chapel, the Memorial, and the Garden of Remembrance, whose wall is inscribed with the names of 1,557 servicemen who were never found and the perfectly aligned graves of 9,386 Americans who gave their lives here and whose remains their families decided to leave here. Maybe it was triggered by my recent viewing of Band of Brothers series.
The Chapel, in the centre of the grounds, is quite small and is intended for individual contemplation and prayer. The care given to the grounds here is beyond anything I’ve ever seen. Each day the graves are tidied up and any flowers or other debris is taken away. Each Italian marble grave marker carries the soldier’s name, rank, unit, and the name of his home state. All the crosses and Stars of David face the west, towards America. There are three Medal of Honour recipients buried here, including General Theodore Roosevelt, Jr. I wandered around, trying to take in the enormity of the sacrifices these and other soldiers made to win WWII, and found myself crying.





I count visiting this cemetery as one of the most moving moments in my life.
German – La Cambe
La Cambe cemetery, is situated near to Omaha Beach and is the largest German military cemetery in Normandy. Over 21,400 German soldiers are buried there. In the middle stands a six metre hill, surmounted by a granite cross which represents the common grave of 296 combatants.
The cemetery has ornate megalithic shaped gravestones, black plaques lying face up in place of headstones and the virtual absence of flowers. Whilst the site is perfectly maintained, its blackness gives it a sorrowful ambience and is a powerful reminder of the futility of the Normandy campaign for German troops after D-Day. Interestingly, there are a number of grave markers with dates following the end of World War 2, as the German soldier was given the task of clearing their own mine fields. With the exception of the central mound, floral tributes were very conspicuous by their absence. I’m not sure if that is German custom, or just at this cemetery, but it did make the cemetery feel inhospitable. In hindsight, I wish I had left some flowers, and will on my next visit.





Canadian – the Bény-sur-Mer Canadian War Cemetery
The Canadian cemetery was just a short drive from the village of Bény-sur-Mer and was very different to the German and American cemeteries. The grave were intersperse with colourful flowers and shrubs, giving the whole place a sense of happiness and celebration. It was especially moving to read the ages on the many, many headstones and realize that the majority of the men who lost their lives here were in their early twenties. The cemetery is beautiful with rows of white headstones and carefully tended flowers at every grave, bordered with Maple trees.





Here are some sobering figures about World War II. It was the deadliest military conflict in history.
Over 60 million people were killed.
German 5,500,000 military 3,000,000 civilian deaths
British 380,000 military 67,000 civilian deaths
American 416,000 military 514,000 civilian deaths






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