Pen-y-Ghent. Climbing second time round
A few years ago Helen and attempted to climb Pen-y-Ghent, the third highest mountain in the Yorkshire Dales. However, we were forced to turn back, about 300ft from the summit, due to blizzard conditions. So this year we decided we’d try again.
We started our 12k trek in Horton in Ribblesdale, a village huddled around the railway station, at the foot of the mountain. It was a drizzling, but not enough to put us off, but just to be sure, we had full waterproof gear on to keep the weather out.
Heading out of the village the route took us along the lower fells, and past some stunning waterfalls in full flow following the recent heavy rain the Dales has endured. Feeling energetic, we took a detour off the main path to see Hull Pot, which I can only describe as a massive fissure in land. It’s about 200ft deep, with a waterfall cascading over one side, and many springs emerging from the rocky walls. It’s a breathtaking place to see and feel.
We retraced our steps and returned to out route up the mountain. However, the drizzle had turned to steady rain, heavy at times, and the wind was getting stronger. As we climbed, we entered the cloud base, so visibility became difficult at times. That said, the paths we were walking on were well marked and easy to follow.
The higher we climbed, the stronger the wind became, and the hard it rained. We finally reached, and passed the point where we were forced to turn back years before. It was a good feeling, but a fleeting one, as the weather turned nasty, very nasty. The wind became so strong it was hard to walk, even the streams running off the mountain were being turned back, and the rain was just incredible. Passing the last few cairns, we finally made it to the top, and huddled behind a drystone wall to try and get some relief from the stormy conditions.
The horrendous weather continued to deteriorate, so we didn’t stay on top long, just enough to catch a breath before we headed back down. Fortunately our route down, was sheltered in the lee of the mountain, so the rock scramble was not as dangerous as it could have been. That said, as soon as we came out of Pen-y-Ghent’s shadow, we faced the full force of the storm, gale force winds, and hail, and then rain as we descended.
By the time we had broken out of the cloud, we were soaked! Rain had found its way through our clothing, and even our boots were struggling with the conditions. The ground was sodden, muddy, and a challenge to walk on, so it was with some relief that we reached the road, and headed back to our car.
So it seams that climbing Pen-y-Ghent is going to be “third time lucky” trek, as it’ll be nice to get up there in good weather for once!









